Making A Flagstone Patio

Before you begin to lay your base materials for your patio experiment with different patterns to make the best use of the stones. Then you need to mark any stones that will need to be cut to make your flagstone patio. Now draw a rough sketch of the layout to show where all of the stones will be placed. Another thing that you might want to do to keep the location of the stones is to make them with a pencil or a piece of chalk, and then cross-reference them to your rough sketch. After you will need to remove and stack them in small piles outside the patio area, near by where they will be laid for your patio.

Now draw a rough sketch of the layout to show where all of the stones will be placed. Another thing that you might want to do to keep the location of the stones is to mark them with a pencil or a piece of chalk, and them cross-reference them to your rough sketch. After you will need to remove and stack them in small piles outside the patio area, near by where they will be laid for your patio.

Whether you are building a square or a rectangular patio you need to lay out the patio outline with stakes and leveled strings. Be sure to adjust the strings to provide the proper 1/8 inch drop per foot slope to allow water runoff from the patio surface, for sure if you are going to put your patio by a building. But if you are laying a free-form design, you need to drive stakes every 3 to 4 foot around the perimeter to indicate the border.

Prepare the area by removing all obstacles and sod, then you need to excavate to a depth that will accommodate the thickest flagstones plus 4 inches of compatible gravel sub base and 2 inches of sand. Then run leveled strings across the excavation in several directions, and measure down from these to make sure the bottom of the excavation follows the slope of your finished patio. Then tamp it firmly with a hand tamper.

To prepare the base you need to install landscape edging around the patio border to contain the sub base, then pour and spread an even layer of compatible gravel sub base into the excavation. The dept of the material should be at least 4 inches plus 1/4 to 1/2 inch. to allow for compaction. Then take a hand tamper and compact the material.

Lay down a layer of landscape fabric over the compacted base, overlapping the edges of the fabric at 6 to 8 inches. Trim the edges to leave a 6 inch overlap beyond the patio boarders.

Next you need to spread a 2 to 3 inch thick bed of coarse, dry sand into the excavation area. Take a 2 X 4 board and level and smooth the sand. Take a hand tamper and compact then sand.

Now it is time to lay the stones, you need to start laying the stones on one high side of the patio. You need to lay all of the border stones around the patio perimeter. Do not kneel on the screened sand bed. Use the thickest stones for the border, setting them a bit deeper than the rest to offset the extra thickness. If you use thicker, heavier border stones, this will help anchor the center stones in place. Always twist the stones to bed the into the sand. Check all the border stones with a level and adjust if needed so you will have a good drainage slope.

Next arrange the stones to fill in the filed area. Use both large and small stones across the entire patio to create an even, attractive pattern. Keep the joint width between the stones about 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inch. Then take a hammer and put the stones into the sand.

If you need to cut some stones, you will need to mark then cutting lines with a pencil on both sides. Score the cutting line 1/8 inch deep with a circular saw fitted with a carborundum masonry blade. Then tap back and forth along the score line with your hammer until the stone breaks.

When you get through laying all of your stones, you need to recheck the entire surface to make sure the stones are real close to the same height. Use a 2 x 4 with a level attached to check for the overall level and slope. Let the stones settle for a few days and then recheck for the level and slope. If you have any stones that are lower than you need to remove them and put more sand down where they were at. Bed the stones down on the sand firmly by tapping them with a hammer and wood block.

Fill the joints with dry mortar mix.

You need to mix one part Portland cement to six parts coarse and in a wheelbarrow or a five-gallon bucket. Take a hose and wet the entire patio surface, then allow the surface of the stones to dry. Pour the dry mortar mixture evenly over the patio surface and sweep it into the joints with a push broom.

Compact the mortar into the joints with a 4 feet length of 1 x 4 or a strip of plywood. Repeat the process until the dry mortar is well-packed and flush with the stone surface.

Mist the patio surface being extra careful in not washing the mortar from the joints. When your patio surface has dried out and the mortar has partially set (about one hour) repeat the joint-filling process if you have any low spots. When all the joints are flush, you will need to allow the mortar to set for several hours, and now you need to use a coarse water-soaked rag and a stiff bristle brush to cover off any excess mortar from the stone surfaced.

Cover your whole patio with a piece of plastic sheeting and allow the mortar to cure for at least two days. While this is going on, nobody can walk on your patio. After the mortar is fully cured, you can remove any remaining mortar stains from the stones by scrubbing with a light solution of one part Mauriac acid to nine parts water (wearing safety glasses, heavy rubber gloves and long sleeves).